Home Network Ideas – Your home network forms the basis of your telephone, wireless network, television, home automation, home theater, distributed audio, and sometimes your home security. The design, including layout, of your home network panel can affect its ability to meet current and future needs. Here are some tips and tricks to help you design your home network panel.
Whole house project. Start with a general idea of the overall design of your home and how it relates to the design of your home network panel. What type of cable do you need, how much and where is the best location? You can put it on paper and write down your requirements to design enough port slots.
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Leave room for expansion. In the future, you want to expand your home network, so plan to expand it.
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Go BIG on your home’s chain link fence. Better to be big. My standard installation includes two 38-inch panels side by side. You always seem to need more space than expected. This setting provides options for the future.
Use a chain hoist. This is an expensive and time-consuming project, so make it look good. Hide the cables on the panel using a network bracket. My standard installation has five network risers on each 38-inch panel. Once the riser grille is installed, cables can run behind it to maintain a clean, professional appearance.
Use the race track. Spend time and money on 1 1/2″ ducting when installing the grill. Raceway allows you to add cables in the future.
Consider your connection options. Even if you are a DirecTV user, consider that in the future you or a potential owner may want Cox or Comcast cable. Allow for flexibility in your dashboard design.
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Provides design flexibility. Finish it all off with a female RJ-45 connection with a punch. Commercial cable installations are installed this way because it provides more flexibility. Note: Channel Vision punch blocks accept RJ-45 and RJ-11 connections, so you can use the cable for a variety of functions. SuperUser is a question and answer site for computer enthusiasts and power users. Registration only takes a minute.
Before we go out I’d like to meet you and buy a brand new switch and a ton of cat5 cable.
I want to increase file transfer speed between all computers and (if possible) two laptops. When I tested my transfer speed from SAMSON to TESSA using this site’s Speed Test, I got 5419.47 KB/s from SAMSON to TESSA and 6242.03 KB/s from TESSA to SAMSON.
What do you think? Is there anything else I can change to increase the speed a bit?
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Does your broadband modem also do routing and NAT or is it a modem that connects to another router?
Additionally, you should be able to easily fill a 100 Mbps network with CIFS or NFS traffic, so you should see 10-12 MB/s throughput rather than the 5-6 MB/s throughput you see now. Your wireless connections will be much worse: if you use 802.11G, they will be around 3-4 MB/s.
If you have a gigaswitch in the middle of your network, you’ll get performance above 100 Mbps, but don’t expect anything close to saturation. It’s entirely possible, but it’s unlikely to happen.
You should also replace the onboard network cards with dedicated PCI cards. For example Intel 1000GT here (Netherlands) for around 30 euros. I can manage an average transfer rate of 110 MB/s by installing two of these cards on two mainframes connected by suitable Gigabit switches.
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But if you install this network card on all your computers, you will need a Cisco switch.
Computers and access points (no DHCP/NAT on these access points) When choosing a switch, choose one with enough ports to handle the number of computers connected.
Note that if you plan to have a high-performance network, choose brands like dlink, linksys, netgear, airlink, etc. may not be enough. They work well for basic home solutions, but they are not a performance product line. Look to brands like Cisco, SonicWall, Samsung, Edgewater, Netopia and Adtran for the best routing solutions.
Also note: When testing your download and upload speeds, you’ll only get accurate results if you run the tests on a network with speed tests enabled, so test it on your ISP’s website alongside of your DNS servers. will give the best results.
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Since you are considering replacing your network cables, it is a good idea to use Category 5e or even Category 6 cables. Category 5 cabling is currently considered obsolete, and if you are considering upgrading your network hardware to gigabit speeds, you’re going to be in trouble. .
The first is that you have a Gigabit switch behind the 10/100 switch. This means that anything that goes into the Gigabit switch will have a maximum speed of 100 Mbps. Except for the three nodes you are connected to. Make a Gigabit switch the center of your network.
Only 10/100, so you’ll want to replace the router. Additionally, you will be best served by a router between the modem and the switch with all devices connected to the switch.
In this case, I’m assuming your laptop is connected via Ethernet; If it’s wifi, your devices support N, and even if you buy an N-enabled router, you’ll still encounter bottlenecks.
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By clicking “Accept All Cookies”, you consent to Stack Exchange storing cookies on your device and disclosing information in accordance with our Cookie Policy. This article is a description of my home network setup based on Gigabit Ethernet. I did a non-standard trick with VLANs that might be of interest to others. I’ll start with a network diagram. Take a look (click to enlarge).
I have now replaced my Mac Mini with an HP N40L router running Ubuntu 12.04 LTS. This server is now located in the basement. Managed network switch replaced by Airport extreme.
I have a Mac mini Linux that doubles as an internet router. The closet that houses the cable modem is not a friendly environment for such a device and there is no suitable place for it. The closet is also located outside our house, behind a not very secure door. That’s why I keep my router indoors.
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From this closet, one UTP cable leads to the living room and the other to the basement. This setup has a big problem. How to operate two different networks on the same phone?
I need to connect my iMac to my “internal” home network. But the Mac mini must be connected to both the Internet network segment (connected to the cable modem) and the home network. All on a single UTP cable.
So I use VLAN. I use the same cable to connect the Internet and the local network. VLAN 10 is for the Internet and VLAN 20 is for my local network. For all of this to work, you need a managed switch that supports 802.1q.
Suppose the server accesses the Internet to get the latest Linux security updates. How does this network traffic flow through the infrastructure (click to enlarge)?
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All Internet traffic must pass through the router. So even if the basement feed goes through a switch near the cable modem, it must first go to the living room router. There, the router decides whether traffic is allowed to egress to the Internet and whether it enters the Internet VLAN.
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